How to anodizing aluminum at home?
I. Conditions: The anode must be aluminum or aluminum alloy.
Second, equipment: tile basin (pottery basin, tile cylinder can also be used, as long as it is resistant to acid solution corrosion, can put parts on the line) PS seems to be plastic.
Power: 9.6V-12V battery or DC transformer
4. Solution: 12% sulfuric acid (H2SO4) solution. (For example: 100 ml of solution, sulfuric acid accounts for 12 ml, 88 ml of water) or electrolyte seems to be also available (there is a car repair place where batteries are sold)
Five, 2 stainless steel plates (100mmX100mmX300mm size)
Six, a number of wires;
Proceed as follows
1. The parts that require the anode must be completely degreased (including fingerprints, hand sweat, dirty things, etc.), such as scrubbing with lukewarm washing powder water, and then rinse thoroughly with water and dry.
2. Fill the glass tank with 88% tap water, and then slowly add 12% concentrated sulfuric acid while stirring with a glass rod.
Do not put sulfuric acid before water, because concentrated sulfuric acid and water will generate high heat, so the water will boil.
3. The amount of solution has been overwhelmed by parts. It is estimated that it will take several hours to cool to room temperature. When the solution temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius, the anode hardness is very high, and the effect above 20 degrees Celsius is not good.
Welded stainless steel wires, or perforated stainless steel wires to make them conductive and connected in series. Immerse in the solution and connect the negative pole of the DC power supply on both sides of the tile basin (close to the wall).
4. Connect the degreased and dried parts to the positive pole of DC with stainless steel wire. Immerse in solution.
5. Wait for 60 minutes, and you’re done. If the original parts have been fully polished (like chrome plating), the anode will show the texture of stainless steel, and the surface is scratch-resistant ~~ If you want to show the gun gray or fog texture, Sandblasting must be performed before the anode is finished with a tweezer (anti-oil) and placed in a black or gray “mineral dye” (available in chemical stores) solution. If you want a darker color, soak longer. In short, you can get whatever color you like ~~~ Finally, wipe the surface with warm machine oil to make it closed and passivated. This method can keep the permanent color unchanged. In fact, the so-called anode means that the aluminum piece is connected to the positive electrode (anode), and the surface of the surface generates a series of reactions through the conductive effect of the acid solution, which increases the surface hardness and corrosion resistance. And the surface physical structure is modified to make it easy to adsorb dyes.